In March of 2017, I‘d reserved 5 weeks to explore Oaxaca, wanting to learn more about its regional produce. Previously, I had made an overview of the more ubiquitous and essential foods to include in my ebook, and Oaxaca being one of the more biodiverse States, it begged much more of my time. Plus, you know… Oaxaca is magical. So, despite the heat and general overwhelm that I experience in massive markets, I was duty-bound to explore the labyrinthine Central de Abastos (having meditated beforehand).

Oaxaca City’s Central de Abastos is the distribution hub for all produce going into, and out of, Oaxaca. It is where local chefs, cooks and vendors from smaller markets in the city come to stock up on produce from within the region as well as from elsewhere in Mexico and Central America. It’s also considered a ‘Mecca’ for food-lovers who visit Mexico. Wafts of ever-changing aromas from sweet and musky mangos and guavas to the smokiness of the region’s chiles fill your nose. Jewel-tone fruits might be cut open to display their succulent flesh, and the sometimes impossibly tall or wide pyramids or vertical stacks of the many shaped food items are impressive. Chiles are strung, greens piled into mounds and insects piled high in handwoven baskets.

 

Chicatana ants are not a snack food

Two pesitos (the vendor emphasized how few pesos) was the payment requested for the trio of tiny chicatana ants now sitting in the palm of my hand. As a sustainable protein and a traditional food in this part of Mexico, (and plant food lovers themselves) I’m a keen supporter of insect-eating.

Unlike chapulines (grasshoppers), chicatanas are not a snack food. This, I learned the hard way. Once I’d cracked the thin, dry carcass between my teeth, glass-like shards and little legs proceeded to scratch their way down my throat. Tears filled my eyes as I tried not to sputter. A bottle of water appeared in front of my face and a tall smiling man asked was I ok. I choked – now with a mix of surprise and glee. I glugged some water and quickly composed myself.

“Chef! I had been hoping to meet you!”

Oaxaqueños are very warm people —  he placed his hand on my shoulder. “Really?” he said with a big smile. He thought he was merely saving a silly gringa from choking on chicatanas.

This was my moment!

I tried to remember my 30 second elevator pitch. I didn’t have to tell this guy that Oaxaca was more rich in diversity of edible plants of any place I had been to, but i did. And to let him know how invested I was, I explained that I had created an eBook for foreigners like me who come to Mexico with little or no knowledge of the breadth of Mexico’s plant foods, nor the hows and whys of using them and their value to the culture. From there, the conversation was easy.

Next thing, we were in his car, driving out to the Casa Oaxaca farm. He vaguely mentioned there would be some sort of filming going on, but for me, it didn’t matter; I was happily along for the ride.